Jipijapa hat weaver Alfredo
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
The Lonely Planet was clear about buying a Panama Hat in Merida, back in 1996 when my family began researching hat dealers. One of the first rules was to avoid stores with salespeople bookmarking a Lonely Planet review from years previous, as some would purportedly use an old review to hock lower quality pieces for a high price. If the edition was current, there was a stronger possibility of purchasing something for a fair price, in accordance with its quality. I was always amazed, on my different trips through Merida, how many galleries used this tactic to up-sell cheap quality (textiles, ceramics, silver, clothes, hats) for a collectible price and of course, the gallery owners never suspected I could know a thing, given my youthful looks.
I was 30 years old when I returned to Merida in 2006, though I was still being ID`d for wine at home where the legal age was 19. I had been a self-employed art dealer for nearly 3 years and had worked in galleries and museums for 15. Upon receiving one testimonial in my hands from a dusty Lonely Planet book, I flipped to the front and saw the copyright date was 1985. I still used it as a learning experience to study the silver pieces in their showcases, as the mediums and techniques were so different from what I was used to on the Pacific Northwest Coast. I remember trying on a silver & turquoise bracelet that was feather light (turquoise dust mixed with glue and dyed), and having no idea how a novice collector could ever really discern the difference between real or fake Amber, with amber being naturally light. I have since visited the Amber Museum in San Cristobal de las Casas, and would still be extremely reluctant to purchase anything from street vendors. This is not to suggest all street vendors are dishonest, but to point out that many of them may not be properly equipped or connected to certified dealers, leaving them vulnerable to plastic magicians.
Jipijapa Fibre Strips
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
I purchased my first Jipijapa Panama Hat from a wonderful and reputable dealer in Merida back in February 1996. Somewhere in an old album in Canada, I still have a photo of him. Over the years of maturing in my own profession as an art dealer who worked with dozens of exceptional indigenous weavers from Canada`s West Coast, I have studied that hat many times to conclude it authentic, fine and quite exquisite for the price I paid.
But my heart would skip a beat, whenever I pondered the thought of visiting this town of Jipijapa hat weavers in Yucatan....
and just so you know how to pronounce it - Becal rhymes with Freckle....
A pot of dye from natural bark pigments
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
It is important to acknowledge Panama Hats and their important history, as they became a coveted commodity during the construction of the Panama canal. Though their name suggests they originated in Panama, these hats were actually made in Ecuador by the indigenous people there.
Known locally in Ecuador as a Panama hat, Ecuadorian hat, a jipijapa jat or toquilla straw hat, these intricately woven pieces were made from a plant fibre sourced from toquilla palm or jipijapa palm, though these are more like plants than trees. Panama hats are made in various styles, with different weaves, and vary in price depending on their quality. Most hats made in Becal take 2 days to weave, while authentic fine hats from Ecuador can take a master weaver up to 8 months to create. Production time is actually much longer, as this does not account for the time taken to harvest, strip and process the plant fibre itself. It should always be understood that to master such a skill also requires several years of practice and mastery. Getting the tension even is an important factor in assuring the piece retains its shape, especially for collectible hats that can be rolled and folded for easy transport in your luggage. Inexpensive hats cannot be folded - only a true collectors hat can withstand being rolled and folded, which is why they became so coveted. Master weavers in both Ecuador and Becal, Campeche are celebrated for their fine collectors quality.
The art of weaving this traditional Ecuadorian hat was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists on December 5, 2012.
Weavers Studio
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
So how did Panama hats end up in Becal Campeche, when Jipijapa is indigenous to Ecuador? It just so happens there were hat weavers already in Becal weaving hats from guano palms, which is a much thicker material.
A beloved priest by the name Don Pedro Hurtado arrived in the Becal area in 1814, only two years after he became a priest. He solely funded the construction of a road from Becal to Calkiní and was also instrumental in a wide road to Merida from Campeche, which was capable of handling carriages. As his favourite course of study was medicine, he volunteered to help the locals with various medical needs, refusing to accept payment for his expertise or assistance. So dedicated was Father Hurtado to Calkini and Becal, that he turned down many offers to leave his Priesthood there.
Alfredo weaving a jipijapa hat
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
That said, in 1859, Father Hurtado travelled overland to visit Peten-Itzá in Guatemala to share his religious teachings and while there, observed the locals making use of a palm that was lighter and finer than what the hat weavers of Becal utilized for their sombreros. He sent samples home with his brother, so the weavers of Becal could try it. A local Spaniard who grew up in Becal, Don Juan García Fernández, sent two of his songs to Peten-Itza to purchase a significant supply of the straw, and also to bring home plants that could be grown in Becal. These were planted at the Hacienda Santa Cruz, where they thrived.
There are other stories about the procurement of the Jipijapa palm, including the fact that it took 21 days to travel to this region of Guatemala to purchase the light and high-quality fibre, which became the main motivation for collecting as many shoots as possible, for cultivation right in Becal. Records indicate a maestro hat weaver in Becal, Mr. Tino Chi, was appointed to teach the local children his skills.
Weavers Cave
Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
There is little information about the history of these exquisite hats, or how Jipijapa ended up in Guatemala, though it is fair to assume it was likely brought there by another priest, since they had a tendency for such things in the Americas.
In Becal, it is believed there are around 2000 caves dug from limestone in the gardens of local properties. Some are natural, though most are manmade, and their necessity is due to the dry climate. When jipijapa is harvested, the fibres are carefully split into fine fibres, which are then hung out in the sun to dry and bleach. The plant material must be dry before it can be dyed, and artisans use a number of different plant materials and tree barks for natural dying, with many also employing synthetic dyes today for vibrant colours. Once the grasses are dyed, they must hang again to dry before the weaver can begin to construct a hat.
The three most popular weaving patterns utilized by modern weavers incude the Brisa, Liso/Cuenca and Montichristi. The Cuenca weave resembles a herringbone, while the Brisa is akin to very fine diamond patterns. The Montichristi name refers to the fine quality and time to make, as these are the most collectible of all hats. The name is more in reference to value, than pattern, as these hats are so fine, they appear to be linen. Another style of hat, which are sold for under 1000 pesos, are an open-weave for quick completion. Still beautiful and handmade, these also serve a huge market for those who cannot afford collectors items.
Due to the dry climate of Campeche, the families weave in these backyard caves because they are humid enough for the fibres to remain soft and malleable, without snapping.
We will visit the hat weavers of Becal in February during our Birds of the Maya Empire: La Ruta de los Chenes bird watching extravaganza. If you are unable to come, but are interested in purchasing a hat, please contact us for more information. I have one woman`s hat left from my travels there in December, but am open to discussing these hats with you further, if you would like to order one.
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Cuenca Weave Pattern
Jipijapa Hat in Becal, Campeche Mexico
Photo by Jennifer Bjarnason December 2023
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